Iceland is a country of fire and ice. It's a landscape photographer's dream, so I carried my wide-angle lens. We didn't have to carry bottled water, though: unlike most of the countries Joe and I have visited in recent years, Iceland's tap water is safe to drink..although it smells a little sulfurous.
Little wonder the Vikings, Irish and Scots were the first to settle here. It's not too long a trip if you're a hardy seafarer. And the cold and rain? It was just like home for them. Settlements date to the 10th century AD.
First day in Reykjavik, adjusting to the time change. We did experience "summer" - about 20 minutes of sunshine daily, breaking through the mist and drizzle in unpredictable 5-minute blasts. Not the ideal spot if your hair tends to frizz.
First "wildlife" sighting! In Reykjavik. Iceland doesn't have much wildlife other than birds, so a photographer can't be too selective.
Icelandic closely resembles Old Norwegian. Not that it would be any easier to decipher if it resembled modern Norwegian. This is Thingvellir Park, site of Almannagja, the mid-Atlantic Ridge. Here the North American and European tectonic plates are s-l-o-w-l-y pulling apart. Pictured is the edge of the North American plate. Come back in a few million years to check the progress.
Valley in Thingvellir. The Norse tribes held their communal gatherings in this area.
The intrepid (which doesn't include me) can snorkel between tectonic plates.
Thingvallakirkja. (Kirkja = church)
Poncho-clad Joe at right.
Waterfalls are common, all spectacular but some more so. In Icelandic, "foss" means waterfall. This is Oxarafoss, kind of tame compared to others.
Planted birch trees
The climate does not allow for growing crops outdoors. Fridheimar grows tomatoes year round in temperature-controlled greenhouses.
The greenhouses were such a tourist draw that the owners added a restaurant, located inside one of the hothouses. That's Joe perusing the menu.
You say tomato, I say tomahto.
The menu is tomato-centric, including tomato ice cream.
We had tomato soup, making it impossible to ever go back to Campbell's. Fresh basil sits on each table for putting in one's soup.
That's sweetened green tomato sauce atop the ice cream.
Geothermal area with an active geyser, Stokkur. It is more faithful, or at least more frequent, than Old Faithful, erupting every few minutes.
The word geyser comes from Norwegian.
Microbial mats. Say hello to your very, very distant one-celled cousins.
I don't know what sinter is. I can't convert kilometers to miles. But I get the point.
The constant rain and intermittent sunlight make this the land not just of fire and ice, but rainbows, too.
This is Thorsmork, Valley of the God Thor. This is not Thor.
Three glaciers meet in Thorsmork. Lava and volcanic rocks are everywhere. A super-jeep is required to navigate the glacial rivers. It's a rough ride.
I spotted an arctic fox, still in his dark summer coat. Too fast for me to catch with the camera.
Hiking above Thomrsmork. The trail was steeper and longer than we anticipated. Maura's fitbit clocked it at 3.77 miles, but that doesn't count the elevation gain.
Debbie on the beach in South Iceland. The Vestermann Islands are in the distance. Notice the black sand, really more like ash.
The Vestermanns' population is 4,000. Remarkably, there is a hospital on the largest of the islands. Puffins roost on the cliffs, and schoolchildren have a day off each April to collect the young birds, which are apparently delicious (when cooked).
There is ferry service between the islands and the Icelandic mainland. The waters are treacherous.These folks didn't make it.
We found the end of the rainbow at Skogafoss!
Sheep are everywhere - in the fields, on the mountains, and on the menu. They have to be brought inside for the winter or they will starve. You can't see it in this photo, but the ones that are not going to be butchered get bright paint applied to their heads. Way too much information for me.
Icelandic horses. Unlike sheep, their dense coats allow them to remain outside year-round.
Their protective winter coats are growing in.
Icelandic horses are gentle and friendly. They were eager to socialize with us. I was so not disappointed.
They have a very even gait which makes riding them a pleasure.
What's not a pleasure: A nanosecond after this photo was taken, I discovered the fence is electrified.
Just one more because he's so darn gorgeous.
Visiting the sheep farm of one of Stefnir's old school chums, Rennwick. This is the barn where the animals overwinter. Joe and I frequent the most elegant places!
Rennwick, center, talking with Judy Warren, and Michael and Maura Pollack.She and Stefnir attended school together (about 100 students in all). She went on to get degrees in agricultural science.
Her father inherited the farm from his father. Several of her uncles decided sheep farming was too harsh a lifestyle and gave it up. Sounds sensible.
The family's two-year-old border collie. They say he needs to improve his herding skills. He certainly needs no improvement in the cuteness department. What a sweet boy.
Stefnir entertained us with Icelandic folk music.
This melody is about missing old friends you won't again see until spring arrives.
We visited the tiny church in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where we were greeted by the Lutheran priest. Since Stefnir had told us almost no one attends church, I asked as diplomatically as possible how he spends his time. He replied that he does a lot of home calls and visits the sick. He attended seminary in Iceland, Denmark, and Dubuque, Iowa.
The pastor told us about the 1783 eruption from the Laki volcano, near the church. The eruption created a year-long winter, killed off most of the livestock and nearly a quarter of Icelanders. The event is described in the autobiography of Jon Steingrimsson, also known as the "fire priest," who prayed with his congregation as the lava approached. The church was spared, and this church was erected in his memory in 1974.
Would you like to read the 23rd Psalm in Icelandic?
If it's Tuesday, it must be another rainbow.
Glaciers. Get 'em while they're not hot. Clock's ticking.
Hiking to view a cave once home to Irish monks.
Vatnajokull National Park. Home to the biggest glacier in Europe. Yes, Iceland is considered part of Europe.
Svartifoss in Vatnajokull Park. Another "moderate" walk uphill, said Stefnir. The man is such a liar.
Our traveling companions included, L-R ,Judy Warren from Detroit, Maura and Warren Pollack from Tulsa. This is one relatively level portion of the hike.
Stefnir in his classic Icelandic sweater and waterproof pants. He has worked on a fishing boat, as a shepherd and done other physically daunting work. The only time he was frightened, he says, was while visiting Egypt, sitting in a taxi making its way through chaotic Cairo traffic.
Vatnajokull view
Game of Thrones is filmed in Iceland, a fact unknown to us until now since we are among the .00001% of Americans who have never seen a single episode.
The moss is so thick, deep and spongy that some people actually get vertigo from walking (wading) through it.
This is Jokulsarlon, a frigid glacial lagoon that empties into the Atlantic. Chunks of ice from the nearby glacier float in the water and litter the black sand beach.
Totally unnecessary sign at Jokulsarlon. Brought to you by the same people who warn you not to eat the silica packet.
We never did see the Northern Lights. We were not as disappointed as our traveling companions since we'd experienced them in Alaska a few years ago. Even when the aurora forecast is promising, the weather is so changeable that it's always hit and miss.
"Homemade happy married cake."
The black beach at Vik in South Iceland, site of caves and strange rock formations.
The money shot. Headed for enlargement and a wall.
Strange basalt columns frame this cave on the beach.
Reykjanes Peninsula. The entrance to a lava tube, Raufarholshellir.
I should get a prize, because I am cleithrophobic. Google it.
The tunnel was the location for several movie shoots, including Noah with Russell Crowe. I haven't seen it, but if you have, now you know the rest of the story.
Lunchtime enroute back to Reykjavik.
I happened on the restaurant's resident canine while I wandered outside.
Another beauty. Look closely.This one's a double.
We visited Stefnir's farm in Hvolsvollur. He has sheep, horses and...
...DOGS!!!
These are Icelandic sheepdogs. Rapture.
He also has a cat...
...and chickens.
Stefnir's "backyard"
Look closely. The end of the rainbow is visible here, too.
Lunch at Hendur i hofn ("Hands in the Harbor"). The restaurant is weirdly located in an industrial fish-packing and shipping area in Thorlakshofn. The chef, seen here, is also a glassworks artist and sells her creations at the restaurant.
We had fresh-from-the-ocean Atlantic char. (Special note to Karps: The chef did NOT forget the pickles.)
The famous Blue Lagoon, the must-see spot for tourists. It's actually not a natural lagoon. It's dredged, although it is heated by natural hot springs as well as artificial heat.
Back in Reykjavik. That tall building is a church, built to resemble the volcanic basalt columns that are typical to Iceland. It's viewable for miles.
Here's Joe ordering Reykjavik's famous Baejarins beztu pylsur ("best hot dog in town").
The pre-vegetarian Bill Clinton ate here and they display his photo as proof.
Not bad, but truth be told, Sabrett's is a better street dog. The BBP frank is traditionally eaten with remoladi, a mayonnaise-based sauce. This is just plain wrong. So very, very wrong.
Friendly crossing sign in Reykjavik. Last year Iceland had 2.3 million visitors. The population is a mere 330,000, half of whom live in Reykjavik. The streets are teeming with tourists.
Skyr is like yogurt but less caloric and more creamy. Find it at Whole Foods.
Flea market at Reykjavik harbor.
That's a chimney. Don't ask me to explain.
Thanks to everyone for visiting!
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